Sticks of Fire: a Tampa blog

Fly Restaurant and Bar opened late last year to crowds of people eager to try the new trendy place that was a pioneer in an otherwise desolate neighborhood in downtown Tampa. Proprietor Leslie Shirah opened Fly in Tampa after successfully opening and running several restaurants, including a similar concept in San Francisco. She figured that the same type of upscale yet cultured establishment in the Tampa Bay area would prove to be a great idea; I agree. I waited until just a few weeks ago to give the place a try, if only to avoid the “trendy” and “see and be seen” crowds that flock to every hot new establishment in town. What I found was a restaurant and bar with open space, interesting architecture with exposed brick, original artwork and an innovative menu that turns its back on the boring chain restaurant menus across the Tampa Bay.

The drinks are decent and the bartenders are competent. If you’re caught up in the fruity martini craze, there’s a list of signature cocktails (all $9), including the popular mango or raspberry flavored mojitos. The wine list is compact, but offers an adequate variety of red and white, with bottles beginning in the $30 range. The glasses of wine are a bit overpriced; I was disappointed by an $8 glass of house cab that I had recently while sitting at the bar. For those who want to get some fresh air or a good view of some new condo developments downtown, a rooftop bar makes for a good getaway to drink or smoke. The menu is designed to encourage couples or groups to share, take their time eating and to enjoy the experience. Although the menu consists of “share” (appetizers) and “plates” (complete meals) sections, the portions are small as to allow the experience of multiple dishes. It’s another variation on the tapas type concept, though Fly doesn’t use the word “tapas” on the menu. Another unique feature is a late night menu that is served after eleven o’clock every night; a godsend for the Tampa area given the limited late night dining choices.

Appearing on the regular and late night menu, one of the dishes to make headlines was the Kobe Beef Sliders, three miniature burgers lined up on a rectangular plate, topped with gruyere cheese and Cabernet Onions. I tried them on my first visit and realized that they were almost the perfect bar food; full of flavor and easy to eat with a glass of red wine. But at $13, I now view them as an over-priced burger. The prices of each item at first glance seem reasonable, but given the portion size and the number of dishes required to equal an entrée at a typical restaurant, the tab can add up fast. A dinner for two with a bottle of wine can easily reach the $100 range, while a cocktail and snacks at the bar will run you $30 to $40.

On a recent visit we were able to try a couple of dishes from the seasonal specials, which change frequently. If the menu has changed by the time you visit Fly, do yourself a favor and take a risk; the kitchen has talent. The Chipotle Soy Marinated Skirt Steak ($12) tasted exactly as I anticipated, a little salty and a little smoky. The marinade complemented the flavor of the meat and it paired well with the corn and tomato salsa served as an accompaniment. Since I tend to like bold southwest flavors, I really enjoyed the dish. Also from the specials menu we tried the Sautéed Mussels ($13); a decent sized bowl of plump, juicy, perfectly cooked mussels, swimming in lemon herb butter, garnished with fennel. I couldn’t ask for better cooked mussels, but the sauce lacked a distinctive flavor. It was a rather mild butter sauce with hints of herbs but fortunately was not overpowered by the pungent taste of fennel. Since mussels have such a mild flavor, a really good sauce can highlight the taste and I always like a flavorful sauce left over to sop up with my bread or frites.

Speaking of frites, Fly has some of the best around. No, they’re not on par with French Bistro standards, but they’re perfectly cooked and well seasoned. The Frites Two Ways ($9) appears on the regular menu as well as the late night menu and is a perfect way to mop up the leftover sauces from your empty plates or absorb the alcohol in your system after a night of drinking. The large plate is split in half with a duo of Idaho/Truffle Butter and Fresh Herb Frites paired with cayenne ketchup and less common Sweet Potato Frites with a Jalapeño Watercress Aioli. The first time I tried the frites was late on a Friday night after happy hour and they were an excellent way to finish the evening. The second time was during a regular dinner because, well, you can’t have mussels without frites, right? I was thoroughly impressed and they are now some of my favorite around. Beware, the portion is large and they are meant for sharing.

It may sound as if I am gushing over the menu, but not every dish was outstanding. The Crab and Lobster Cakes ($13) didn’t blow me away. In fact, most of the punch came from the Chipotle Chili Cream sauce that they sat atop. It was a tad spicy and overpowered the mild seafood flavor of the cakes, but without the sauce, there wasn’t anything distinct about the dish. To be fair, lobster is a mild flavor and takes a second seat when paired with crab. I was also excited to order the Tumeric Spiced Lamb ($14), only to be let down by several tough slices of lamb that were overpowered and swimming in a White Bean Ragout that was heavy on flavor of chili powder. The lamb was cooked medium rare, but the flavor just didn’t impress. I had heard my friend Darryl say that the lamb at Fly was one of the best he’d ever had, but I could have caught the chef on a bad night, or he might have had the previous incarnation of the dish.

It may have taken me a while to give Fly a chance, but I’m glad I did. Tampa has a void of original places that needs to be filled and Fly Bar and Restaurant Bar succeeds. As I was, you may be hesitant to check out the “new” place downtown, but after more than six months, Fly seems to have hit its stride. The crowds are now manageable, the menu is refined and the atmosphere is still charming. I can’t be sure of the future of downtown Tampa, but regardless, I’ll still make the short pilgrimage to drink and dine at Fly. I suggest you check it out too.

Last State Inspection: March 2007, no violations

Fly Bar and Restaurant
1202 N Franklin St
Tampa, FL 33602
(813) 275-5000
(could find no website)

Check out the Menu at MenuSearch.net

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