fresh mex at algusto tortilla and salsa
Since my arrival in Tampa almost two years ago, I’ve spent quite a bit of time searching for a great Tex-Mex restaurant, only to come up short time and time again. I probably won’t return to Miguel’s and the food at Estella’s isn’t even close to acceptable. I still haven’t found exactly what I am looking for, but on Saturday evening I came close with a great meal at Algusto “Tortilla and Salsa” Mexican Restaurant. While not the panacea of Tex-Mex cooking, the atmosphere was inviting and the food was fresh and tasty.
After a day at St. Pete Beach, I was shocked when my fiancée suggested Mexican food for dinner. She’s normally not a fan, but is occasionally known to indulge in a platter of fajitas. We joined some friends in the afternoon for a tasting of French wines at Beaune’s West Palm 
Wines in Ybor, then cruised down Kennedy for an early dinner at Algusto. Though we didn’t have a reservation, the restaurant was fairly empty, which seemed reasonable for 6:30pm. I was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness and positive atmosphere of the restaurant, complete with brightly colored tile, high ceilings and an open kitchen.
As we were seated, the first thing we requested was an order of Algusto’s popular homemade guacamole ($4.95). It was a little creamier than I prefer, but the flavor was perfect and I feel it is one of the better ones in the area. The portion was large, so unless you have several people to split it, you may want to think twice about filling up on appetizers. The assortment of salsas was also impressive, but the presentation was not. We tried the mild salsa, a chunky pico de gallo and we also had some of the spiciest version, a smooth and spicy orange salsa, presumably made with with habanero peppers. While both were fantastic, they were served in small, disposable plastic ramekins that made them difficult to eat.
Naturally, we chose to indulge in an order of chicken and beef combination fajitas ($10.95). Instead of the sizzling platter cliché, the meat arrived on a plate, colorfully mixed with a variety of sauteed strips of bell pepper. The chicken was juicy and the beef had a smoky, grilled flavor, but for a place with “tortilla” in the name, I had hoped for some that were homemade. Instead we were served warm tortillas, right out of the bag. On the side was a small plate of uninspired refried beans and rice, pico de gallo and a heap of guacamole.
I decided to try out the tampaquena ($12.75), a marinated and grilled steak accompanied by a chicken mole enchilada, rice and a mound of colorful sautéed bell pepper strips (see a trend here?). The thin piece of steak was cooked well done, a tad further than what it should have been, but it was still tender enough to enjoy. The chicken enchilada was filled with shredded chicken and topped with a fantastic rich mole sauce. I typically use the steak tampaquena as a benchmark to judge Mexican restaurants and though it was a good meal, I didn’t exactly wake up thinking about it the next morning. Instead of the excessive number of bell pepper strips, I would have preferred something edible, such as refried beans; now I know for next time.
To cool off the spicy Mexican food, I had a couple of Mexican beers ($3) and we also tried a glass of red sangria ($4.75), which was a tad too sweet for my taste. Unfortunately Algusto does not have a full liquor license and is not able to serve my drink of choice: the margarita. Instead, they serve the fake wine-based margarita ($4.75) which is supposed to act as a substitute. Call me crazy, but I have no desire to try a margarita that lacks tequila. Though the list of desserts looked impressive, we didn’t have any room to indulge in any flan or tres leches.
My ideal Tex-Mex restaurant needs a great margarita, solid food, great chips and salsa and an inviting atmosphere. Three out of four isn’t bad and I’ll definitely be back to Algusto Mexican Restaurant soon. Although it is labeled as a “Mexican” restaurant with a menu that serves great mole and traditional favorites, there are plenty of Tex-Mex influences, such as fajitas, quesadillas and chips and salsa on the table. Also, in some dishes, the “fresh” and “healthy” dishes go a bit far for my decadent tastes. Regardless, if you are looking for a great restaurant serving fresh Mexican food alongside Tex-Mex favorites, I’d give Algusto a thumbs up.
Algusto Mexican Restaurant
912 West Kennedy Blvd.
Tampa, FL 33606
(813) 250-3500
http://www.algustomexicanrestaurant.com/
Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: January 2007 violations - Critical (7), Non-Critical (5).
Tags: food, restaurant, review, tampa
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July 21st, 2007 at 12:43 am
Alright GREAT PLACE. also try El Jalapeno @ 40th & Busch Blvd. Real Austin Cooking there Yummy
July 21st, 2007 at 10:48 am
ill give this joint credit for a nice atmosphere and trying to make its food slightly higher quality. actually, im surprised theyve been able to stay in business this long since it rarely seems to be crowded. i think they survive on lunch. there isnt any street traffic except maybe ut students?
i take their somewhat high prices as the cost of the decor. i stick w the basics, though, when eating here.
July 21st, 2007 at 12:23 pm
Others have suggested El Jalapeno to me. Maya’s is also good, but I’ve only eaten lunch there, never dinner.
You’re absolutely right about Estela’s and Miguel’s. (Tho I was forced to eat at Miguel’s a second time, and the second time was not as bad as the first.)
July 21st, 2007 at 5:45 pm
This is likely the best sit-down Mexican joint in town. I disagree with a lot of your points, particularly faulting the place for not having a liquor license, but glad (I think?) that your overall experience was satisfying. You won’t find a prouder owner who always appears sincerely and actively interested in his diner’s experience.
July 22nd, 2007 at 9:20 am
David, you think you’re glad that I had a good experience? I am sure many disagree with plenty of my ideas, but I am using true Tex-Mex restaurants as the benchmark for my search.
I wouldn’t call it a “fault” for not having a liquor license, but I sure don’t find it acceptable to serve a lime flavored wine cooler and call it a margarita. I think a full liquor license would be a smart business decision for any Mexican restaurant, but the local liquor laws tend to make it cost prohibitive for the independent restauranteur. That is unfortunate and makes it tougher for the small restaurant owner to compete with the deep pockets of the corporate chains. Also, liquor sales would definitely help keep prices reasonable.
Speaking of menu prices dreaming, I think the higher prices are necessary for that caliber of food. It’s not the decor that drives up the prices, it’s the lack of a huge profit generator to pad the bottom line (liquor and a real wine list).
-Kevin
July 22nd, 2007 at 10:25 am
Try Vallarta’s, 9255 N. 56th St. in Temple Terrace. Real Mexicans often eat there, not UT students. I lived in Austin for 10 years and this place is pretty good. Prices are great, decor is what you’d expect, not designer. South Tampa is not the right place for Tex Mex, too white bread, no authenticity.
July 22nd, 2007 at 11:58 am
Sorry, perhaps I should have placed my parenthetical statement later - I meant that I thought you had a good experience.
Thanks for mentioning how hard it can be for a place to get a liquor license - by cost or by code - that’s all I was getting at.
July 24th, 2007 at 9:47 am
When I think “Tex-Mex”, I think “What Americans know of Mexican food” and while it can be good, it can be very limited. I like the platter-style Mexican (Tex-Mex, rather), but what I would really prefer is authentic Mexican food, i.e. taquerias y tortillerias or (please lord), higher-end autentica restaurantes! This place sounds like a cleaned up, Mexican attempt at pleasing Yanquis…not really all that intrigued by that as that seems to be most of what you see in Tampa and Pinellas (Manatee and Sarasota seem to have a larger Mexican population and I am interested if anyone knows about this part of the Bay/Gulf).
So far, El Taconazo, El Toro Negro and El Cabano de Tio win my taqueria awards for this immediate area, all for different items on their respective menus.
July 24th, 2007 at 11:24 am
irene,
What you need to keep in mind is that “Tex-Mex” is a style of cuisine on its own. Tex-Mex food no longer has to apologize for being an Americanized Mexican food, nor will I apologize for seeking it out.
I love Mexican food as much as the next guy, probably more. But in my search for good Tex-Mex food, I don’t comare the two cuisines, for they are differnt and unique in their own ways. Stay tuned for more articles about Mexican food in the area; I eat a LOT of it!
-Kevin
July 30th, 2007 at 10:19 am
I’ve never been too impressed with this place. I agree that miguel’s and estella’s are aweful. I had a boss who loved to go to Al Gusto’s for lunch, so i’ve eaten there many times. I think the flavors were pretty bland and boring.