Sticks of Fire: a Tampa blog

Several weeks ago I took a vacation to San Francisco and for a whole week I consumed some of the best food and wine in my life. Needless to say, returning to the reality of everyday life has been especially hard and I’ve done my best to come down from the vacation bliss. Imagine my shock yesterday morning when I opened up the local paper online and was met with a picture of a former Tampa chef, in San Francisco!

According to the article by Chris Sherman, Chef Scott Howard cut his culinary teeth in Tampa at top-notch restaurants such as rg’s, Capriccio and Mis en Place. Unfortunately for Tampa, Chef Howard felt that in order to make it big, he had to leave the area for a city more serious about food. So he moved to San Francisco and is now doing things with food that Tampa won’t see for a long, long time. I am ecstatic that a Tampa Bay chef has moved on to find great success, but in the same note I find it disheartening to learn of such a talented chef who felt the need to leave the area in order to succeed.

Sherman interviewed Chef Howard about his “move to California, his cooking philosophy and how the chains are eating Tampa Bay.” One of those questions struck me particularly close to home, especially since I have done quite a bit of writing on the subject:

On what Tampa Bay needs to become a “food town”:

“…I talk to my friends every week on the phone. When I speak to Marty (Blitz) and B.T. (Nguyen of Cafe BT in Tampa’s Hyde Park), they say it’s become so saturated with chains. That’s the big difference. Chains don’t survive here. Or maybe, they don’t thrive. There may be an Outback around, but I don’t know where.

People here support individual restaurants and chefs; they really demand quality.

Of course you’ve got some really great restaurants (in the Tampa Bay area), but the competition from the chains is really strong, especially in the casual restaurant segment. You (Tampa Bay diners) just can’t support many good independents.

How do you feel about this statement? I do my best to promote independent restaurants but I’ll admit that I have an occasional meal at Bonefish or Fleming’s. Are we doing our best as a city? If you are a frequenter of chain restaurants, what makes you gravitate toward them? What would you like to see from independent restaurants? I have my own opinions about these questions and freely admit that the some of the chains do a great job with customer service and marketing. But is the food really better?

Local restaurants mentioned:

Restaurant BT
www.restaurantbt.com

Mis en Place
www.miseonline.com

Since my arrival in Tampa almost two years ago, I’ve spent quite a bit of time searching for a great Tex-Mex restaurant, only to come up short time and time again. I probably won’t return to Miguel’s and the food at Estella’s isn’t even close to acceptable. I still haven’t found exactly what I am looking for, but on Saturday evening I came close with a great meal at Algusto “Tortilla and Salsa” Mexican Restaurant. While not the panacea of Tex-Mex cooking, the atmosphere was inviting and the food was fresh and tasty.

After a day at St. Pete Beach, I was shocked when my fiancée suggested Mexican food for dinner. She’s normally not a fan, but is occasionally known to indulge in a platter of fajitas. We joined some friends in the afternoon for a tasting of French wines at Beaune’s West Palm Wines in Ybor, then cruised down Kennedy for an early dinner at Algusto. Though we didn’t have a reservation, the restaurant was fairly empty, which seemed reasonable for 6:30pm. I was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness and positive atmosphere of the restaurant, complete with brightly colored tile, high ceilings and an open kitchen.

As we were seated, the first thing we requested was an order of Algusto’s popular homemade guacamole ($4.95). It was a little creamier than I prefer, but the flavor was perfect and I feel it is one of the better ones in the area. The portion was large, so unless you have several people to split it, you may want to think twice about filling up on appetizers. The assortment of salsas was also impressive, but the presentation was not. We tried the mild salsa, a chunky pico de gallo and we also had some of the spiciest version, a smooth and spicy orange salsa, presumably made with with habanero peppers. While both were fantastic, they were served in small, disposable plastic ramekins that made them difficult to eat.

Naturally, we chose to indulge in an order of chicken and beef combination fajitas ($10.95). Instead of the sizzling platter cliché, the meat arrived on a plate, colorfully mixed with a variety of sauteed strips of bell pepper. The chicken was juicy and the beef had a smoky, grilled flavor, but for a place with “tortilla” in the name, I had hoped for some that were homemade. Instead we were served warm tortillas, right out of the bag. On the side was a small plate of uninspired refried beans and rice, pico de gallo and a heap of guacamole.

I decided to try out the tampaquena ($12.75), a marinated and grilled steak accompanied by a chicken mole enchilada, rice and a mound of colorful sautéed bell pepper strips (see a trend here?). The thin piece of steak was cooked well done, a tad further than what it should have been, but it was still tender enough to enjoy. The chicken enchilada was filled with shredded chicken and topped with a fantastic rich mole sauce. I typically use the steak tampaquena as a benchmark to judge Mexican restaurants and though it was a good meal, I didn’t exactly wake up thinking about it the next morning. Instead of the excessive number of bell pepper strips, I would have preferred something edible, such as refried beans; now I know for next time.

To cool off the spicy Mexican food, I had a couple of Mexican beers ($3) and we also tried a glass of red sangria ($4.75), which was a tad too sweet for my taste. Unfortunately Algusto does not have a full liquor license and is not able to serve my drink of choice: the margarita. Instead, they serve the fake wine-based margarita ($4.75) which is supposed to act as a substitute. Call me crazy, but I have no desire to try a margarita that lacks tequila. Though the list of desserts looked impressive, we didn’t have any room to indulge in any flan or tres leches.

My ideal Tex-Mex restaurant needs a great margarita, solid food, great chips and salsa and an inviting atmosphere. Three out of four isn’t bad and I’ll definitely be back to Algusto Mexican Restaurant soon. Although it is labeled as a “Mexican” restaurant with a menu that serves great mole and traditional favorites, there are plenty of Tex-Mex influences, such as fajitas, quesadillas and chips and salsa on the table. Also, in some dishes, the “fresh” and “healthy” dishes go a bit far for my decadent tastes. Regardless, if you are looking for a great restaurant serving fresh Mexican food alongside Tex-Mex favorites, I’d give Algusto a thumbs up.

Algusto Mexican Restaurant
912 West Kennedy Blvd.
Tampa, FL 33606
(813) 250-3500
http://www.algustomexicanrestaurant.com/

Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: January 2007 violations - Critical (7), Non-Critical (5).

A couple of weeks ago on a Saturday evening, my fiancee and I were craving some Italian food from Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano. Since we didn’t have a reservation and it was a last minute decision, we figured having a bottle of wine and some appetizers at the bar was the way to go. When we arrived, the wait for a table was about 40 minutes and the small bar was crowded. But after only a few minutes and a half of a cocktail, we were seated in the corner of the cozy bar.

We began with the Benedetto’s Dip (or Ben Dip, for short, $14.95), a thick dip packed with shrimp, crabmeat, artichokes and plenty of white cheese, served with crostini. Decadent, rich and simply delicious, it’s one of our favorite appetizers. We also tried one of their specials, the stuffed mushrooms ($12.95), filled with lump crabmeat and covered with cheese. Although I am not normally a fan of mushrooms, the flavor and texture blended right in with the crabmeat and cheese. Based on the filling qualities of the previous two apps, we were only able to squeeze in one more: fried calamari ($10.95), tender and fried golden brown. It was served with a side of marinara for dipping, but calamari cooked that well only required a quick squeeze of lemon. To top it off, we paired everything with a bottle of Santa Cristina Sangiovese, affordable at only $28. There was no room for dessert during that trip.

While Benedetto’s may be one of our favorite restaurants in “the North,” we don’t always plan ahead and sometimes it is good to be spontaneous. Dining at the bar might not be for everyone, but I find it an attractive alternative for those who decide at the last minute that they want good food but don’t want the hassle of a 45 minute wait for a regular table. Next time you are faced with a long wait at your favorite restaurant, give the bar a chance.

Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano
21529 Village Lakes Shopping Center
Land O’ Lakes, Fl. 34639
813-909-9694
www.benedettoitaliano.com

Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: June 2007 violations - Critical (4), Non-Critical (5).

Sometimes a meal at a nice restaurant is planned. You may make reservations a week ahead of time, think about the dinner for a few days and even peruse the menu a bit before leaving the house for the big event. Then there are some weekend evenings where dining out is a spur of the moment idea and the thought of going out without reservations is out of the question. However, if you are flexible, I’d bet that you and a companion can dine at almost any Tampa Bay establishment on a weekend evening with no more than a ten minute wait. How? By dining at the bar.

As a single guy, I spent quite a bit of time dining at the bar in restaurants. It never bothered me, since I probably knew the bartender and I sure didn’t enjoy sitting by myself at a table made for four. But now, I find my experience as a bar diner comes in handy when ducking into a nice restaurant without any prior planning. If you are willing to forgo a table, you’ll get quicker seating and nearly instant service, since the bartender is only steps away. Plus, you may even get that complimentary glass of wine you always hoped for. While far from a complete list, some places where dining at the bar is acceptable, even “cool,” include, Sidebern’s, Courtside Grill, Fly Bar and Restaurant, The Lime, Ceviche in St. Petersburg and Bonefish Grill. What are your favorite spots to dine at the bar?

For anyone in the Tampa Bay area remotely interested in food, I suggest picking up this week’s issue of Creative Loafing. Titled the “Food Issue,” David Warner and Brian Reis head it up with a comprehensive article about “Restaurant Rows,” featuring streets that contain clusters of great dining in close proximity. In addition to the usual mentions of Howard Avenue in Tampa and Central Avenue in St. Pete, he opens up the world to hidden treasures in Dunedin and Gulfport. Now that I’ve got my road map, it looks like it is time for me to make a day trip.

In his regular column, Reis makes the official announcement of his transition from freelance food critic to the position of full time food writer and editor. It may have been a long time coming, but the timing was right for Creative Loafing to get serious about food. Since Chris Sherman’s recent retirement, Brian Reis has stepped up to the plate and proven himself to be one of the area’s best food writers and critics. I believe he will be the anchor for the future of the food writing community in the Tampa Bay area. You can quote me on that.

In the span of three months, two national publications have named Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa the number one steakhouse in the country. This month’s issue of Saveur, aptly named “The Steak Issue,” is packed full of talk about steak, ranging from steak knives to steak sauces and even a photo laden tutorial on the various cuts of meat. But the most important to me is a list called the “Magnificent Seven,” naming the nations top steak houses. Of course, the number one steakhouse is Bern’s, right here in our own backyard. We may not be well known in the culinary world, but when it comes to steak, we can hold our own with the likes of New York and San Francisco. But it doesn’t end with a quick mention in a food magazine.

If you are one of the rare few that buys Playboy magazine for the pictures, you may have missed the list of America’s Top Ten Steakhouses on page 30 of the May issue. Yes, it’s the issue with Anna Nicole on the front and the lovely pictorial of the Girls of Conference USA, (featuring several from UCF), but I just subscribe for the articles anyway. Bern’s, according to Playboy:

“The dry-aged beef is impeccable, and exacting waiters have been known to apply the vermouth to your martini with an eyedropper.”

I’ll agree about the dry aged beef, but applying vermouth with an eyedropper to me just sounds ridiculous. I’m just here for the beef. This is a serious list and is no page filler; also appearing in the top ten is Crescent City Steakhouse in New Orleans, the old-school joint where Ruth Fertel got the idea for the sizzling platter of steak and melted butter. Once again, we take the number one spot show the nation that not only do we have beautiful women in Florida; we know how to eat a good slab of beef.

It only took me a year and half, but this weekend I finally found something I longed for in Tampa: a good seafood restaurant. Sure, there are great restaurants in the bay area that serve seafood, but I’m not talking about a fine dining restaurant serving a $27 entree of fresh imported fish with fancy sauces. I’m talking about a seafood restaurant for those of us that grew up and live on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. You know, the kind place with raw oysters served on the half shell, fried seafood platters, steamed blue crabs and cold beer to wash it down. On Saturday afternoon I found it all at the Crab Shack Restaurant in St. Petersburg.

My girlfriend and I spent most of the day at the beach, and on the way home I realized I was in the mood for seafood. Besides, there isn’t a better way to follow up a hot day at the beach than with ice-cold raw oysters. My friend Joe raved about the Crab Shack just last week, singling out the taste and freshness of the Apalachicola oysters. After a quick stop at home and a little Internet research, I decided that it was time for a try.

Located on the Pinellas side of the Gandy bridge, the Crab Shack is a local favorite. With only about 15 tables, the place fills up fast and always seems to have a wait. The building is small, with low ceilings and has the character of a run down seafood joint on the water; exactly what I expected. The clientèle is unpretentious too; a mix of families, bikers and young couples alongside the gray haired lady sitting at the bar nursing her carafe of white zinfandel. It’s definitely not a tourist destination.

We started out our meal on Saturday with a dozen cold raw oysters on the half shell ($8.95) that turned out to be some of the best I’ve had in the bay area - salty and fresh. Although I typically do not eat at five o’clock in the afternoon, we were lucky this time to have stumbled in on happy hour, which runs 4-6 pm Monday through Saturday. I took advantage of the daily special - two for one draft beer and oysters for only $6.95 a dozen.

The dinner menu is diverse and reads like a typical seafood joint: fried fish, oysters and shrimp, steamed blue crabs and they requisite seafood platter. After eating them raw for an appetizer, I decided I would continue and order the Fried Oyster Plate ($12.95), which I enjoyed with French fries and homemade coleslaw. The oysters were fried perfect and packed with flavor – I loved every bite. My girlfriend decided on the Stuffed Shack Fish ($13.95), a large piece of cod filled with a blue crab stuffing then broiled. The fish was excellent, but I have to admit that almost anything is good if you stuff it with crabmeat and broil it with a heap of butter. We planned to hit another happy hour down the street and unfortunately unable to indulge in any dessert, unless you count more two-for-one beers.

Dining at Crab Shack is a winner and I consider it a victory in my search for reasonably priced, down to earth seafood. It’s my kind of place and will definitely be back soon. The menu has something for everyone and is one of the few places in town I have seen steamed blue crabs as well as fried soft shell crabs. Check out the Crab Shack Restaurant website to peruse the menu and even print out a coupon for a free beer, wine or well drink! The prices are reasonable, the food is good and the restaurant has character. When you are in the mood for down home seafood, don’t just eat at Joe’s, you really should try out the REAL Crab Shack.

Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: May 2007 violations - Critical (7), Non-Critical (8).

Crab Shack Restaurant
11400 Gandy Blvd
St. Petersburg, Florida
(727) 576-7813
http://www.crabshack.com/

Whether you live in St. Pete or on the Tampa side of the bay, you’ve got an opportunity to make it a great food festival weekend. Beginning tomorrow evening at Vinoy Park in downtown St. Pete is the Taste of Pinellas. I saw the ads last year listing the participating restaurants and decided that I wasn’t interested in tasting Pinellas in any way, shape or form. However, I was pleasantly surprised this year at the number of independent, quality restaurants offering food for this three day, outdoor family festival. The festival is free and beside the food, features several great bands, including Peter Frampton, .38 special and the Neville Brothers.

Some of the restaurants include Red Mesa, Boulevard Bistro and Parkshore Grill.  According to a quote in the St. Pete Times today,

“It was dominated by the chains before,” says Steve Westphal of Parkshore Grill. “This year we made a drive to (involve) the more local restaurants.”

I say hurray for the effort and the spread, I hope it is a sign of times to come. I would have liked to see more progressive and upscale restaurants on the list, especially since Pinellas houses some of the area’s best, including Café Ponte and Salt Rock Grill.  But I’m convinced the festival is moving in the right direction.

If you need to satisfy your craving for Louisiana boiled crawfish, you can get your fix Saturday at a boil organized by Nola Café in South Tampa. They’ll have over 3,000 pounds of boiled crawfish and a reasonably priced bar at Hooper’s Hollow at The A La Carte Pavillion (near Rocky Point). There will also be live music and a portion of the profits will be donated to the United Way of New Orleans. It’s the 1st annual, so I am hoping for great weather and a great turnout. Check out the flyer and if possible, email NolaCafe301@aol.com with the estimated head count.

Happy eating this weekend!