Sticks of Fire: a Tampa blog

If you buy your bread at Publix, you may want to read this.

Did you know that Sara Lee makes some of Publix Brands breads? Did you know that some Sara Lee bread contains bits & pieces of metal? Not on purpose, but apparently there was a mishap down at the Sara Lee factory, and some of their loaves are being recalled.

Not a huge story, I know… But Publix is one of the most popular grocery stores around these parts. And if you shop at Publix, odds are good that you pick up their brand of bread once in a while. So, if you think about making a ham sammich tonight with that Publix Bread, you may wanna check those bar codes.

Check the Tribune for the complete list, but here is a partial listing of other brand names you might be familiar with:

• Golden Bake Wheat Bread
• IGA Wheat
• Great Value Split Top
• Great Value Wheat Sand
• Piggly Wiggly Wheat Bread
• Publix Honey Wheat
• Publix 100% Stoneground
• Publix Wheat
• Publix Stone Ground Wheat

Several weeks ago I took a vacation to San Francisco and for a whole week I consumed some of the best food and wine in my life. Needless to say, returning to the reality of everyday life has been especially hard and I’ve done my best to come down from the vacation bliss. Imagine my shock yesterday morning when I opened up the local paper online and was met with a picture of a former Tampa chef, in San Francisco!

According to the article by Chris Sherman, Chef Scott Howard cut his culinary teeth in Tampa at top-notch restaurants such as rg’s, Capriccio and Mis en Place. Unfortunately for Tampa, Chef Howard felt that in order to make it big, he had to leave the area for a city more serious about food. So he moved to San Francisco and is now doing things with food that Tampa won’t see for a long, long time. I am ecstatic that a Tampa Bay chef has moved on to find great success, but in the same note I find it disheartening to learn of such a talented chef who felt the need to leave the area in order to succeed.

Sherman interviewed Chef Howard about his “move to California, his cooking philosophy and how the chains are eating Tampa Bay.” One of those questions struck me particularly close to home, especially since I have done quite a bit of writing on the subject:

On what Tampa Bay needs to become a “food town”:

“…I talk to my friends every week on the phone. When I speak to Marty (Blitz) and B.T. (Nguyen of Cafe BT in Tampa’s Hyde Park), they say it’s become so saturated with chains. That’s the big difference. Chains don’t survive here. Or maybe, they don’t thrive. There may be an Outback around, but I don’t know where.

People here support individual restaurants and chefs; they really demand quality.

Of course you’ve got some really great restaurants (in the Tampa Bay area), but the competition from the chains is really strong, especially in the casual restaurant segment. You (Tampa Bay diners) just can’t support many good independents.

How do you feel about this statement? I do my best to promote independent restaurants but I’ll admit that I have an occasional meal at Bonefish or Fleming’s. Are we doing our best as a city? If you are a frequenter of chain restaurants, what makes you gravitate toward them? What would you like to see from independent restaurants? I have my own opinions about these questions and freely admit that the some of the chains do a great job with customer service and marketing. But is the food really better?

Local restaurants mentioned:

Restaurant BT
www.restaurantbt.com

Mis en Place
www.miseonline.com

Since my arrival in Tampa almost two years ago, I’ve spent quite a bit of time searching for a great Tex-Mex restaurant, only to come up short time and time again. I probably won’t return to Miguel’s and the food at Estella’s isn’t even close to acceptable. I still haven’t found exactly what I am looking for, but on Saturday evening I came close with a great meal at Algusto “Tortilla and Salsa” Mexican Restaurant. While not the panacea of Tex-Mex cooking, the atmosphere was inviting and the food was fresh and tasty.

After a day at St. Pete Beach, I was shocked when my fiancée suggested Mexican food for dinner. She’s normally not a fan, but is occasionally known to indulge in a platter of fajitas. We joined some friends in the afternoon for a tasting of French wines at Beaune’s West Palm Wines in Ybor, then cruised down Kennedy for an early dinner at Algusto. Though we didn’t have a reservation, the restaurant was fairly empty, which seemed reasonable for 6:30pm. I was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness and positive atmosphere of the restaurant, complete with brightly colored tile, high ceilings and an open kitchen.

As we were seated, the first thing we requested was an order of Algusto’s popular homemade guacamole ($4.95). It was a little creamier than I prefer, but the flavor was perfect and I feel it is one of the better ones in the area. The portion was large, so unless you have several people to split it, you may want to think twice about filling up on appetizers. The assortment of salsas was also impressive, but the presentation was not. We tried the mild salsa, a chunky pico de gallo and we also had some of the spiciest version, a smooth and spicy orange salsa, presumably made with with habanero peppers. While both were fantastic, they were served in small, disposable plastic ramekins that made them difficult to eat.

Naturally, we chose to indulge in an order of chicken and beef combination fajitas ($10.95). Instead of the sizzling platter cliché, the meat arrived on a plate, colorfully mixed with a variety of sauteed strips of bell pepper. The chicken was juicy and the beef had a smoky, grilled flavor, but for a place with “tortilla” in the name, I had hoped for some that were homemade. Instead we were served warm tortillas, right out of the bag. On the side was a small plate of uninspired refried beans and rice, pico de gallo and a heap of guacamole.

I decided to try out the tampaquena ($12.75), a marinated and grilled steak accompanied by a chicken mole enchilada, rice and a mound of colorful sautéed bell pepper strips (see a trend here?). The thin piece of steak was cooked well done, a tad further than what it should have been, but it was still tender enough to enjoy. The chicken enchilada was filled with shredded chicken and topped with a fantastic rich mole sauce. I typically use the steak tampaquena as a benchmark to judge Mexican restaurants and though it was a good meal, I didn’t exactly wake up thinking about it the next morning. Instead of the excessive number of bell pepper strips, I would have preferred something edible, such as refried beans; now I know for next time.

To cool off the spicy Mexican food, I had a couple of Mexican beers ($3) and we also tried a glass of red sangria ($4.75), which was a tad too sweet for my taste. Unfortunately Algusto does not have a full liquor license and is not able to serve my drink of choice: the margarita. Instead, they serve the fake wine-based margarita ($4.75) which is supposed to act as a substitute. Call me crazy, but I have no desire to try a margarita that lacks tequila. Though the list of desserts looked impressive, we didn’t have any room to indulge in any flan or tres leches.

My ideal Tex-Mex restaurant needs a great margarita, solid food, great chips and salsa and an inviting atmosphere. Three out of four isn’t bad and I’ll definitely be back to Algusto Mexican Restaurant soon. Although it is labeled as a “Mexican” restaurant with a menu that serves great mole and traditional favorites, there are plenty of Tex-Mex influences, such as fajitas, quesadillas and chips and salsa on the table. Also, in some dishes, the “fresh” and “healthy” dishes go a bit far for my decadent tastes. Regardless, if you are looking for a great restaurant serving fresh Mexican food alongside Tex-Mex favorites, I’d give Algusto a thumbs up.

Algusto Mexican Restaurant
912 West Kennedy Blvd.
Tampa, FL 33606
(813) 250-3500
http://www.algustomexicanrestaurant.com/

Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: January 2007 violations - Critical (7), Non-Critical (5).

A couple of weeks ago on a Saturday evening, my fiancee and I were craving some Italian food from Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano. Since we didn’t have a reservation and it was a last minute decision, we figured having a bottle of wine and some appetizers at the bar was the way to go. When we arrived, the wait for a table was about 40 minutes and the small bar was crowded. But after only a few minutes and a half of a cocktail, we were seated in the corner of the cozy bar.

We began with the Benedetto’s Dip (or Ben Dip, for short, $14.95), a thick dip packed with shrimp, crabmeat, artichokes and plenty of white cheese, served with crostini. Decadent, rich and simply delicious, it’s one of our favorite appetizers. We also tried one of their specials, the stuffed mushrooms ($12.95), filled with lump crabmeat and covered with cheese. Although I am not normally a fan of mushrooms, the flavor and texture blended right in with the crabmeat and cheese. Based on the filling qualities of the previous two apps, we were only able to squeeze in one more: fried calamari ($10.95), tender and fried golden brown. It was served with a side of marinara for dipping, but calamari cooked that well only required a quick squeeze of lemon. To top it off, we paired everything with a bottle of Santa Cristina Sangiovese, affordable at only $28. There was no room for dessert during that trip.

While Benedetto’s may be one of our favorite restaurants in “the North,” we don’t always plan ahead and sometimes it is good to be spontaneous. Dining at the bar might not be for everyone, but I find it an attractive alternative for those who decide at the last minute that they want good food but don’t want the hassle of a 45 minute wait for a regular table. Next time you are faced with a long wait at your favorite restaurant, give the bar a chance.

Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano
21529 Village Lakes Shopping Center
Land O’ Lakes, Fl. 34639
813-909-9694
www.benedettoitaliano.com

Inspection Scorecard: Last Inspection: June 2007 violations - Critical (4), Non-Critical (5).

Sometimes a meal at a nice restaurant is planned. You may make reservations a week ahead of time, think about the dinner for a few days and even peruse the menu a bit before leaving the house for the big event. Then there are some weekend evenings where dining out is a spur of the moment idea and the thought of going out without reservations is out of the question. However, if you are flexible, I’d bet that you and a companion can dine at almost any Tampa Bay establishment on a weekend evening with no more than a ten minute wait. How? By dining at the bar.

As a single guy, I spent quite a bit of time dining at the bar in restaurants. It never bothered me, since I probably knew the bartender and I sure didn’t enjoy sitting by myself at a table made for four. But now, I find my experience as a bar diner comes in handy when ducking into a nice restaurant without any prior planning. If you are willing to forgo a table, you’ll get quicker seating and nearly instant service, since the bartender is only steps away. Plus, you may even get that complimentary glass of wine you always hoped for. While far from a complete list, some places where dining at the bar is acceptable, even “cool,” include, Sidebern’s, Courtside Grill, Fly Bar and Restaurant, The Lime, Ceviche in St. Petersburg and Bonefish Grill. What are your favorite spots to dine at the bar?

In spite of having lived in the Tampa Bay area for over 20 years now, there are still bars and restaurants I’ve passed hundreds of times that I’ve always wanted to visit but have just never gotten around to actually doing so. That list got a little shorter recently when I stopped for lunch at Nicko’s diner.

It’s one of those classic “railroad car”-style diners covered in stainless steel. Between that and the fact that they serve breakfast very late (I was able to get an excellent Greek omelet and hash browns after 12:00 noon), I liked the place immediately. The service was very quick and efficient, with plenty of attention in the way of coffee refills which is always a huge plus. Further enhancing the experience was getting to sit at the same booth where Elvis Presley dined after a show at the Fort Homer Hesterly Armory back in 1956. I’m not the world’s biggest Elvis fan so I had no idea until I sat down and saw the commemorative plaque, but it was still cool.

What wasn’t so cool was once again being revealed as the schlimazel I truly am. I learned from watching Laverne & Shirley as a child that a schlemiel is someone who spills their soup in a diner and a schlimazel is someone who has soup spilled on them in a diner (the fact that I’m able to retain life lessons learned from Yiddish speaking Italian-American sitcom characters but couldn’t tell you the value of X with a full pad of paper, a sharp pencil and a scientific calculator will give you a little clue about my level of intelligence). Only in my case, today, it was ketchup that somehow wound up being spilled on me. I still don’t know if the people eating at the booth behind me were startled by a hornet or what happened exactly. This is the kind of thing that happens fairly regularly to me but probably never, ever happened to Elvis, even though we both sat in the same booth. But my waitress graciously comped part of my bill and the food was excellent, so overall, I would recommend Nicko’s highly to anyone. Just be careful when they’re passing the condiments, unless you happen to be The King of Rock and Roll.

(Cross posted at Ridiculously inconsistent trickle of consciousness)

A recent weekend in Orlando reminded me of the vivid difference between my hometown of Tampa and the tourist capitol of Florida that is just 75 miles away.

After the sun went down and the theme parks were all closed, we headed out to downtown Orlando for some fun. It was a good time, although the Orlando group tends to be more mainstream than what you see in Tampa. Fewer tattoos and piercings were visible on this crowd, and they seemed to be a bit older than a random selection of Ybor denizens. Of course, it IS Orlando, so a lot of the people are tourists who will avoid trouble in an unfamiliar place.

Thinking that maybe it was just my limited view, when I got home I googled as much as I could on downtown Orlando and the crime there and found very little. Try putting “Ybor” and “arrest” in a Google search and see the phone book that you get back. The most striking difference is that in the whole night I saw no fights. I didn’t even see anybody tense with that “I’m going to f-up the next person that bumps me” look in their eyes. Everybody, it seemed, was there to relax and check out the scene.

So I have to conclude that there IS a difference between the two cities’ party districts. Why is one constantly the source of pain and contention while the other appears to function more smoothly?

If you are familiar with Orlando and can offer additional information, please comment below. But here are a few that I have observed:

(more…)

I stopped at a gas station on the way home tonight and I was thirsty, so I went inside to grab something to drink. There I found a canned beverage comprised of half iced tea and half lemonade named after Arnold Palmer. I don’t know a whole lot about Mr. Palmer… I mean aside from the obvious facts that everyone knows; that he was one of America’s greatest astronauts, became president of the United States and invented the umbrella.

But when it comes to personal info, well, I guess I’m just not up to par. Because I had no idea that he enjoyed this concoction so much that they named it after him. Just like how they name sandwiches after celebrities in New York delis. I can only imagine that’s gotta be just a massive ego trip. The closest I’ve ever come to having a sandwich named after me is when they write my name on the bag when I call in for take-out. Of course, I can’t complain. I’ve never done anything worthy of having any foodstuffs named after me. By which I mean I’ve never done anything. At all.

However, here in Tampa Bay, we’re fortunate to have a resident who has several things named after him: Football Hall of Famer Lee Roy Selmon. At one time or another, Mr. Selmon has had a barbecue sauce, a chain of restaurants and a major expressway named in his honor. He’s as famous for conducting himself with grace, class and dignity as he is for anything he accomplished during his storied athletic career. I don’t know how he does it because I’m telling you right now, I couldn’t do it without being downright insufferable. Why, if I were in Lee Roy Selmon’s position…

• During commencement speech at Jefferson High School: “Congratulations, graduating class of 2007! This is a tremendous accomplishment in your young lives and deserves a celebration. Grab mom, dad, grandma and grampa and let’s all go over to Me and have a big, family-style feast! My portions are generous and sharing is encouraged. Bring your diplomas…and your appetites!”
• Approaching a group of shoppers talking amongst themselves at Brandon Town Center Mall: “Say folks, were you just debating what the best, quickest way to get from here to Gandy Boulevard is? That’s easy! Just hop on The Me and you’ll be there in no time! There’s a nominal fee, but I’m well worth it!”
• Climbing over someone’s backyard fence in Carrollwood: “Mmm-mm, that smells really good! But you know what would take those ribs up to Hall of Fame-level delicious? Spread some Me Sauce on them! Go ahead, don’t be stingy with my smooth, smokey goodness. And next time, marinate that meat in Me overnight for even more of a kick!”

Yeah, all things considered, I think the people in charge of naming stuff after people probably have it right.

(Cross posted at Ridiculously inconsistent trickle of consciousness)

For anyone in the Tampa Bay area remotely interested in food, I suggest picking up this week’s issue of Creative Loafing. Titled the “Food Issue,” David Warner and Brian Reis head it up with a comprehensive article about “Restaurant Rows,” featuring streets that contain clusters of great dining in close proximity. In addition to the usual mentions of Howard Avenue in Tampa and Central Avenue in St. Pete, he opens up the world to hidden treasures in Dunedin and Gulfport. Now that I’ve got my road map, it looks like it is time for me to make a day trip.

In his regular column, Reis makes the official announcement of his transition from freelance food critic to the position of full time food writer and editor. It may have been a long time coming, but the timing was right for Creative Loafing to get serious about food. Since Chris Sherman’s recent retirement, Brian Reis has stepped up to the plate and proven himself to be one of the area’s best food writers and critics. I believe he will be the anchor for the future of the food writing community in the Tampa Bay area. You can quote me on that.